Pump 20 ga
Pump 20 ga
I have a pump 20 ga that l found in a creek in the mountains while magnet fishing. Somewhat coated in rust. Definitely a beater/truck gun, but shoots good. External finish is poor. Best way to clean or re-do on the cheap? Pictures in a bit.
I am a wolf. I will confront the sheepdog and eat the flock. ~Blackfire 2009~
Re: Pump 20 ga
Cerakote
TOOLS & MATERIALS NEEDED:
• Disassembled shotgun (completely stripped of all furniture, springs, pins)
• Sandblaster with 100–120 grit aluminum oxide
• Air compressor and spray gun (HVLP or airbrush)
• Oven (capable of 250–300°F)
• Acetone or brake cleaner
• Gloves, respirator, and eye protection
• Lint-free rags
• Hanging wire or racks
• Cerakote paint (H-Series)
• Degreasing tank (optional but helpful)
⸻
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE:
1. Disassemble the Shotgun Completely
Strip the gun down to its bare components. Remove:
• Stocks, recoil pads, sights, pins, screws, triggers, etc.
• Anything that could melt or warp in the oven.
Tip: Take photos during disassembly for easier reassembly later.
⸻
2. Degrease Thoroughly
Use acetone or a degreasing tank to strip oils and residue. Cerakote will not adhere to any oil.
• Soak parts or wipe down repeatedly with clean lint-free rags.
• Wear gloves — even skin oil can mess up adhesion.
⸻
3. Blast the Surface
Use a sandblaster with 100–120 grit aluminum oxide to:
• Strip all remaining finish
• Create a roughened surface for Cerakote to bond to
Be thorough — the Cerakote needs a perfectly clean, blasted surface.
⸻
4. Clean Again
Blowing air removes blasting dust, but follow up with a tack cloth or degreasing wipe.
• Do not touch the parts again with bare hands after this step.
⸻
5. Pre-Bake (Outgassing)
Bake all metal parts at ~250°F for 30–60 minutes.
• This removes trapped oils or contaminants.
• Let cool before spraying.
⸻
6. Mix and Spray Cerakote
• Shake the Cerakote bottle thoroughly.
• Mix with catalyst according to manufacturer’s ratio (typically 18:1 for H-series).
• Strain into your spray gun or airbrush.
Apply in light, even coats, typically 2–3 passes for full coverage.
• Aim for about 0.5 to 1 mil film thickness.
⸻
7. Cure the Coating
Once coated, hang the parts and bake:
• H-Series: Cure at 250°F for 2 hours (verify with Cerakote data sheet)
• Use a thermometer in your oven — accuracy matters
⸻
8. Reassemble
Let parts fully cool and cure before reassembling.
• Inspect for full coverage, runs, or thin spots.
• Reapply or touch up as needed.
⸻
TIPS FOR BEAT-UP SHOTGUNS
• Pitting or rust? Use a wire wheel, Naval Jelly, or blast aggressively. You won’t hide deep pits with paint.
• Barrel vent ribs and roll marks: Tape off or go light to preserve definition.
• Want patterns? Use vinyl stencils or mesh/netting for camo looks.
• Worn internals? Consider Cerakoting internals like the bolt or action bars in Micro Slick (if compatible).
⸻
SAFETY NOTES
• Cerakote fumes are toxic. Use a respirator and spray in a ventilated area.
• DO NOT bake in a kitchen oven used for food. Use a dedicated curing oven.
⸻
OPTIONAL PRO-LEVEL UPGRADES
• Use Cerakote Elite Series for ultra-thin, high-durability finishes.
• Consider laser etching logos or designs after coating.
• Add a top clear coat (e.g., Cerakote MC-5100 matte clear) for extra protection or sheen control.
• Disassembled shotgun (completely stripped of all furniture, springs, pins)
• Sandblaster with 100–120 grit aluminum oxide
• Air compressor and spray gun (HVLP or airbrush)
• Oven (capable of 250–300°F)
• Acetone or brake cleaner
• Gloves, respirator, and eye protection
• Lint-free rags
• Hanging wire or racks
• Cerakote paint (H-Series)
• Degreasing tank (optional but helpful)
⸻
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE:
1. Disassemble the Shotgun Completely
Strip the gun down to its bare components. Remove:
• Stocks, recoil pads, sights, pins, screws, triggers, etc.
• Anything that could melt or warp in the oven.
⸻
2. Degrease Thoroughly
Use acetone or a degreasing tank to strip oils and residue. Cerakote will not adhere to any oil.
• Soak parts or wipe down repeatedly with clean lint-free rags.
• Wear gloves — even skin oil can mess up adhesion.
⸻
3. Blast the Surface
Use a sandblaster with 100–120 grit aluminum oxide to:
• Strip all remaining finish
• Create a roughened surface for Cerakote to bond to
⸻
4. Clean Again
Blowing air removes blasting dust, but follow up with a tack cloth or degreasing wipe.
• Do not touch the parts again with bare hands after this step.
⸻
5. Pre-Bake (Outgassing)
Bake all metal parts at ~250°F for 30–60 minutes.
• This removes trapped oils or contaminants.
• Let cool before spraying.
⸻
6. Mix and Spray Cerakote
• Shake the Cerakote bottle thoroughly.
• Mix with catalyst according to manufacturer’s ratio (typically 18:1 for H-series).
• Strain into your spray gun or airbrush.
• Aim for about 0.5 to 1 mil film thickness.
⸻
7. Cure the Coating
Once coated, hang the parts and bake:
• H-Series: Cure at 250°F for 2 hours (verify with Cerakote data sheet)
• Use a thermometer in your oven — accuracy matters
⸻
8. Reassemble
Let parts fully cool and cure before reassembling.
• Inspect for full coverage, runs, or thin spots.
• Reapply or touch up as needed.
⸻
• Pitting or rust? Use a wire wheel, Naval Jelly, or blast aggressively. You won’t hide deep pits with paint.
• Barrel vent ribs and roll marks: Tape off or go light to preserve definition.
• Want patterns? Use vinyl stencils or mesh/netting for camo looks.
• Worn internals? Consider Cerakoting internals like the bolt or action bars in Micro Slick (if compatible).
⸻
• Cerakote fumes are toxic. Use a respirator and spray in a ventilated area.
• DO NOT bake in a kitchen oven used for food. Use a dedicated curing oven.
⸻
• Use Cerakote Elite Series for ultra-thin, high-durability finishes.
• Consider laser etching logos or designs after coating.
• Add a top clear coat (e.g., Cerakote MC-5100 matte clear) for extra protection or sheen control.
Eric Adair
Re: Pump 20 ga
Have soda blasted metal in past. Cerakote adheres to it better than sand or bead blasting...
I am a wolf. I will confront the sheepdog and eat the flock. ~Blackfire 2009~