Veterans Reloading

I have a pump 20 ga that l found in a creek in the mountains while magnet fishing. Somewhat coated in rust. Definitely a beater/truck gun, but shoots good. External finish is poor. Best way to clean or re-do on the cheap? Pictures in a bit.

Where are the pics?

Cerakote

TOOLS & MATERIALS NEEDED:
• Disassembled shotgun (completely stripped of all furniture, springs, pins)
• Sandblaster with 100–120 grit aluminum oxide
• Air compressor and spray gun (HVLP or airbrush)
• Oven (capable of 250–300°F)
• Acetone or brake cleaner
• Gloves, respirator, and eye protection
• Lint-free rags
• Hanging wire or racks
• Cerakote paint (H-Series)
• Degreasing tank (optional but helpful)

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STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE:

1. Disassemble the Shotgun Completely

Strip the gun down to its bare components. Remove:
• Stocks, recoil pads, sights, pins, screws, triggers, etc.
• Anything that could melt or warp in the oven.

Tip: Take photos during disassembly for easier reassembly later.

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2. Degrease Thoroughly

Use acetone or a degreasing tank to strip oils and residue. Cerakote will not adhere to any oil.
• Soak parts or wipe down repeatedly with clean lint-free rags.
• Wear gloves — even skin oil can mess up adhesion.

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3. Blast the Surface

Use a sandblaster with 100–120 grit aluminum oxide to:
• Strip all remaining finish
• Create a roughened surface for Cerakote to bond to

Be thorough — the Cerakote needs a perfectly clean, blasted surface.

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4. Clean Again

Blowing air removes blasting dust, but follow up with a tack cloth or degreasing wipe.
• Do not touch the parts again with bare hands after this step.

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5. Pre-Bake (Outgassing)

Bake all metal parts at ~250°F for 30–60 minutes.
• This removes trapped oils or contaminants.
• Let cool before spraying.

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6. Mix and Spray Cerakote
• Shake the Cerakote bottle thoroughly.
• Mix with catalyst according to manufacturer’s ratio (typically 18:1 for H-series).
• Strain into your spray gun or airbrush.

Apply in light, even coats, typically 2–3 passes for full coverage.
• Aim for about 0.5 to 1 mil film thickness.

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7. Cure the Coating

Once coated, hang the parts and bake:
• H-Series: Cure at 250°F for 2 hours (verify with Cerakote data sheet)
• Use a thermometer in your oven — accuracy matters

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8. Reassemble

Let parts fully cool and cure before reassembling.
• Inspect for full coverage, runs, or thin spots.
• Reapply or touch up as needed.

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TIPS FOR BEAT-UP SHOTGUNS
• Pitting or rust? Use a wire wheel, Naval Jelly, or blast aggressively. You won’t hide deep pits with paint.
• Barrel vent ribs and roll marks: Tape off or go light to preserve definition.
• Want patterns? Use vinyl stencils or mesh/netting for camo looks.
• Worn internals? Consider Cerakoting internals like the bolt or action bars in Micro Slick (if compatible).

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SAFETY NOTES
• Cerakote fumes are toxic. Use a respirator and spray in a ventilated area.
• DO NOT bake in a kitchen oven used for food. Use a dedicated curing oven.

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OPTIONAL PRO-LEVEL UPGRADES
• Use Cerakote Elite Series for ultra-thin, high-durability finishes.
• Consider laser etching logos or designs after coating.
• Add a top clear coat (e.g., Cerakote MC-5100 matte clear) for extra protection or sheen control.

Have soda blasted metal in past. Cerakote adheres to it better than sand or bead blasting...

I prefer boiling and carding. Boiling will convert the red oxide to black oxide. Black oxide is what bluing is. This will stop all rust in it tracks. You can card with a carding wheel or decreased steel wool. If you have any questions or need some help feel free to contact me. My info is in the vendors section.

Thanks. Didnt know about carding.

That's how you rust blue. Since you already have the rust. All that's needed now is converting it. Mark Novak on YouTube does an awesome job of explaining the whole process. It's very simple. It can be done with a piece of gutter and a fish fry burner. In fact that's how I started blueing.